There is something magical about Brittany that immediately captures the hearts of young and old alike. Perhaps it is its wild coastline alternating with fairy-tale villages, or perhaps it is that atmosphere suspended between reality and legend that makes every corner of this French region special. When we decided to explore Brittany with Enea, we knew a truly special tour awaited us: a perfect mix of history, nature and that authenticity that only genuine places can offer.
Our Itinerary: 8 Stops to Fall in Love
As this was our first trip to this area, we decided to visit the best that Brittany and Normandy had to offer (which we will cover in the next post). We put together a tour that worked for Enea too, adapting the pace to his needs.
We decided to organise our article by city — in each section you will find tips on what to see in and around town, gourmet restaurants and unmissable experiences.
Vannes: the medieval heart of Brittany
After landing in Nantes, which we had visited in the past during a long weekend, we headed straight to our first stop: Vannes, a city that looks as though it has stepped straight out of a fairy tale. Protected by imposing medieval walls, this Breton town charms visitors with its historic centre dotted with pastel-coloured half-timbered houses, flower-filled balconies and picturesque corners.
The unmissable Saint-Pierre Cathedral, with its imposing facade and bright interior, is the spiritual heart of the city. Also worth seeing is the Porte Saint-Vincent, a dramatic gateway into the centre, and the Jardins des Remparts, beautifully kept gardens overlooking the ancient fortifications.
The city's history is also tied to the sea: its marina, lively with sailing boats and waterside bistros, is well worth an evening stroll, perhaps in search of a cosy spot for dinner.
While wandering through the town's narrow streets, don't forget to look up towards one of the most photographed half-timbered houses in Vannes (22 Rue du Bienheureux-Pierre-René-Rogue): there, smiling down at you, are "Vannes et sa femme", two comical wooden faces peeping out from a corner window with an ironic, slightly sly expression. Nobody knows for certain their origin, but they have become a true symbol of the city: some say they represent a craftsman and his wife looking out on city life, while others read into those expressions a wry comment on the world. Either way, it is impossible to walk past without smiling.
Visiting time: 4h
Locronan: a village suspended in time
The village of Locronan was the second stop on our tour. Listed among les plus beaux villages de France, it is a true stone jewel suspended in time. Walking its cobbled streets, you are enchanted by the grandeur of the blue granite houses and an atmosphere unchanged since the 17th century.
At its centre, the splendid Église Saint-Ronan, dedicated to the Irish saint who gives the village its name, dominates the main square with its flamboyant Gothic style.
Also not to be missed is a short walk along a path through trees and silence to the Chapelle Notre‑Dame‑de‑Bonne‑Nouvelle.
The village is also famous for having inspired filmmakers and artists with its timeless charm: easy to see why as you lose yourself in the lanes of its tiny centre.
Visiting time: approx. 2h
Quimper: crêperies and canals
As soon as we arrived in Quimper, we were lured in by the enticing aromas from a crêperie overlooking a pretty little square and had lunch with galette and apple cider.
We then explored the historic centre, strolling along the tranquil banks of the Odet and Steïr rivers, which flow through the city with their small stone bridges and floral corners. As a backdrop, the colourful half-timbered houses and the elegant silhouette of Saint-Corentin Cathedral.
A stop at the historic wooden carousel right in the heart of the city is a must: a moment of pure joy for Enea, among carved horses and old-fashioned music. Quimper welcomed us gently, in a perfect blend of tradition, elegance and family spirit.
Visiting time: 4h
Josselin: the most colourful half-timbered houses
Little Josselin is worth a brief visit if, like us, you are charmed by colourful half-timbered houses. The main street, Rue Olivier‑de‑Clisson, is lined with vividly coloured half-timbered houses that create a truly fairy-tale atmosphere. We then continued our exploration into the heart of the historic centre, visiting the Gothic Basilica Notre‑Dame‑du Roncier.
Visiting time: 1h
Rennes: the lively capital
Rennes struck us with its liveliness and the quiet elegance that pervades every step. The historic centre is a fascinating maze of stone lanes, where half-timbered houses alternate with more classical buildings in a surprising balance.
The walk naturally begins at Place Sainte-Anne, framed by cafés and period buildings, then winds along Rue du Chapitre, one of the most characterful streets.
A few minutes away stands the majestic Saint-Pierre Cathedral, well worth a stop for its bright interior and peaceful atmosphere.
Continuing on, you reach Place de l'Hôtel de Ville, dominated by the town hall and the Opéra in a perfect play of symmetry, and just beyond stands the refined Brittany Parliament, elegant guardian of regional memory.
During our walk we also passed one of the city's ancient gates, a testament to the old walls that once protected Rennes, and which today offer evocative views of stone and history. Rennes is a city to explore at leisure, allowing yourself to be surprised by its balance between past and present.
Visiting time: 4h
Dinan: like a medieval fairy tale
Arriving in Dinan is like opening a window onto another century: imposing walls, stone towers and half-timbered houses overlooking cobbled streets of irresistible charm. The heart of the city beats around Place des Merciers and Place des Cordeliers, two lively squares where colourful facades and artisan signs tell stories of distant times.
From here, it is well worth strolling unhurriedly along Rue du Jerzual, one of the city's most atmospheric streets, which slopes gently down to the port past ceramics workshops, local produce shops and small art galleries. The port itself, with its characteristic riverside promenade along the Rance, is the perfect spot for a relaxing walk admiring the boats and the surrounding greenery.
Just before reaching the port, the patisserie Gat & Vous is an unmissable treat: here we tasted the famous kouign-amann pomme, a version enriched with fresh apples, crisp on the outside, soft and buttery inside — a true symbol of Brittany to be savoured slowly.
In the heart of Dinan's historic centre, not to be missed are the Clock Tower and the Basilica of Saint-Sauveur, two authentic architectural gems that bear witness to the city's rich history.
If you have time, a walk along the walls of Dinan rewards you with breathtaking views over the Rance valley and the city rooftops — a panorama that stays with you.
Visiting time: 3h
Saint-Malo: the city of privateers
Saint-Malo was the crowning jewel of our Breton journey, one of the most fascinating stops in Brittany. The walk along the mighty medieval walls is an unmissable experience, offering breathtaking views over the privateer city and the sea.
If this walk alone will make you fall in love with the city, seeing it from above will leave you speechless: the panorama that opens over the fortified city, surrounded by the turquoise waters of the English Channel, is truly unmissable and offers unique perspectives for capturing the beauty of this seafaring town.
In the heart of the city, the majestic Saint-Vincent Cathedral is well worth a visit, with its crypt housing the tomb of the explorer Jacques Cartier. Strolling through the narrow cobbled streets of the old town, you also come across restaurants, small shops and the lively local market.
We chose to stay in Saint-Servant and it turned out to be an excellent choice. This also gave us the chance to enjoy Plage des Bas Sablons: this beautiful sandy beach offers a privileged view of the fortified city and is the perfect vantage point for admiring Saint-Malo from a different angle.
Visiting time: 4h
Cancale: the oyster capital
Cancale is one of those destinations that wins your heart at first taste. This picturesque fishing village, overlooking the beautiful Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel, has been the world capital of oysters for centuries. The unmissable experience here is to choose fresh oysters directly from the market stalls along the seafront: the local huîtrières display their sea treasures, letting you savour these marine jewels accompanied by a glass of Muscadet.
The seafront promenade offers enchanting views of the traditional grey-stone houses and the comings and goings of fishing boats — a stop here for a lunch or dinner based on the freshest fish is obligatory.
Also worth a visit is the church of Saint-Méen, a striking local stone building that dominates the village: in front of its facade stands a moving monument to the women of Cancale, depicting the fisherwomen with their traditional baskets, a tribute to all those women who for centuries contributed to the maritime economy by gathering shellfish and crustaceans along the shores at low tide.
What makes a trip to Brittany special is not just its breathtaking landscapes or its postcard-perfect villages. It is that authentic atmosphere you breathe at every corner, the feeling of being welcomed into a land that has kept its traditions intact while never ceasing to evolve.
A heartfelt tip: always bring a waterproof with you. The weather in Brittany changes quickly, but even the rain has its charm when you are in the right places.
Before You Leave
- How do I get there? We chose to fly into Nantes and depart from Paris. This allowed us to build a more logical route without having to double back.
- How do I get around? We chose to travel by car, the best option for travelling with children and enjoying the breathtaking scenery that unfolds along Brittany's roads in complete freedom.
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- Where to stay? We decided to use the following cities as our bases:
- Vannes: we stayed just one night and the room did not win us over, so we would not recommend it.
- Rennes: a lovely apartment with a stunning view over the main square, looking onto the Cathedral. The owner was not exactly the friendliest and the cleaning left a little to be desired, but the prime location for exploring the city and the view more than made up for it.
- Saint-Malo: one of the best of the holiday. From the outside we had some reservations, but the interior of the apartment was absolutely perfect. Spacious, tastefully furnished, well equipped and very bright. Highly recommended!
- Where to eat? Here is a list of our favourite spots in Brittany:
- in Vannes we recommend this small bistro offering French cuisine with an Asian twist: Rive Gauche
- in Rennes we recommend Le Bistrot Des Remparts — try the daily menu, delicious and with refined pairings
- in Saint-Malo we had lunch at Restaurant L'Absinthe — the daily menu was good and the decor of the place is quite distinctive
- in Cancale we tried Restaurant La Belle Mer Cancale, one of the many along the seafront, very family-friendly, but the dishes we tried were nothing to write home about (oysters aside)
- in Vannes we recommend this small bistro offering French cuisine with an Asian twist: Rive Gauche
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