There are places that seem designed to make you feel small, to remind you how immense and untameable nature is. Chile, and in particular Chilean Patagonia, is one of those places. During our journey through Argentina and Chile, we decided to dedicate three days to discovering this land of wind and silence, setting off from El Calafate and pushing on to the gates of the famous Torres del Paine National Park. We had no particular expectations, only the desire to lose ourselves among wild landscapes — and Patagonia did not disappoint.
Day 1: Arriving in Puerto Natales, between borders and colours
Our Chilean adventure begins early in the morning, with the boot packed and the road heading south. We leave El Calafate behind us and prepare to cross not one but two border crossings to enter Chile.
The crossing goes smoothly, though the customs formalities remind us that here everything requires time and patience. The landscape, meanwhile, changes slowly. The Argentine grasslands grow ever more desolate, and when we finally arrive in Puerto Natales in the early afternoon, we are greeted by a cloudy sky and a wind that seems to be welcoming us to Patagonia.
Once we have settled into our little cottage on the fjord, we head straight out to breathe in the crisp Chilean air. We begin our walk from Plaza de Armas, the beating heart of the town, with its wooden church and craft stalls.
The surrounding streets are full of small boutiques, colourful murals and cafés with large windows inviting you in from the cold. Puerto Natales has that frontier feel, suspended between the end of the world and the beginning of an adventure.
Day 2: The colours and power of Paine National Park
On the morning of the second day we wake up early, ready for a long day among lakes and mountains. After a quick breakfast, we get in the car and head towards the entrance of Torres del Paine National Park. The sky is partly overcast, the wind already strong, but our enthusiasm is too great to let it dampen our spirits.
Before reaching the park entrance we stop at a lay-by to admire Lago el Toro, where the turquoise of the water stands out in contrast with the mountains in the background, which look almost painted.
We then stop at the information centre at the park entrance to buy our tickets and check the condition of the trails. The friendliness of the staff and the impeccable organisation make us feel welcome straight away.
We then begin our drive around the park, ready to stop at every bend to take photos and soak up the wild beauty of this place. For a full loop, passing by Lago Grey and going all the way to Laguna Amarga, allow about 2.5 hours, including stops at the many miradors: every viewpoint is worth a pause and a few photos. It is a lot of driving, but absolutely worth it.
This is the full route we covered in one full day starting from Puerto Natales.
From the park entrance, we continue towards one of the places we had dreamed of seeing most: Lago Grey. This was where our boat adventure among the icebergs was supposed to take place, but the wind, which rules supreme in Patagonia, decided otherwise. Conditions are prohibitive, all excursions cancelled. A little disappointed, we console ourselves with lunch in the cafeteria of the Hotel Lago Grey, seated in front of the large windows that treat us to a spectacular view of the grey, choppy waters.
We continue our route into the heart of the park. Every stretch offers a spectacle: the Salto Grande waterfall, the surreal turquoise of Lago Pehoé, the stillness of Laguna Larga and the low, hardy vegetation that survives the constant winds.
We also stop at Lago Nordenskjöld and finally at Laguna Amarga, where nature seems to want to embrace us with all its power.
Before heading back, we stop at the Cueva del Milodón, an imposing cave where the remains of the mylodon, a giant prehistoric ground sloth, were discovered. Enea, intrigued, looks at the mylodon statue and cannot resist: he has to touch it.
The history of the Mylodón aside, this cave is nothing special — in our opinion easily skippable.
The day ends on a high note with dinner at Afrigonia, a little restaurant that blends Chilean and African flavours in surprising dishes.
But before heading home, we cannot resist one last stroll along the waterfront of Puerto Natales, as far as the famous Giant Hand and the Mylodón statue. The wind keeps blowing, but by now we are used to it: it is part of the charm of this land.
Day 3: Trekking in Torres del Paine National Park
On the third day we decide to return to the park one more time, because it seems impossible to leave Patagonia without having walked at least a little among its trails.
After checking the weather conditions at the information centre, we opt for a short but scenic excursion: the Sendero del Cóndor. We park the car at the start of the trail and begin the climb towards the mirador. The trail is exposed, the wind blowing so hard it almost knocks us off our feet, but Enea, well wrapped up in the baby carrier, enjoys the view in the warm.
From the top, the view over the turquoise Lago Pehoé is simply incredible. The peaks of Torres del Paine, however, remain hidden behind a wall of cloud that refuses to part. But that is fine. Patagonia teaches us that nature has its own rhythms and that beauty is also in what you cannot see — in the mystery, in the waiting.
On a clear day, its splendour can look like this photo — enough to leave you speechless!
After the descent, we return to the Lago Grey cafeteria for a quick, warm lunch. Before leaving the park, we make one more stop at Salto Chico, a small but striking waterfall rushing powerfully between rocks and shrubs.
The return journey to Puerto Natales is quiet, everyone lost in their own thoughts. We cross endless grasslands dotted with the occasional guanaco and the distant silhouettes of condors circling overhead.
These three days in Chile have given us emotions we will not easily forget. The force of the wind, the ever-changing colours of the lakes, the warmth of the people and that raw, unfiltered nature that teaches you to slow down and pay attention. It does not matter that we did not photograph the peaks of Torres del Paine in all their glory. What we take home is far more: the feeling of having lived a small piece of infinity.
Before You Leave
- Where to stay? For our three days in Chile, we chose a small independent cottage in Puerto Bories, 5 km from Puerto Natales, in the direction of the park. With an priceless view over the meadows, mountains and fjord, it is tastefully furnished and has huge windows looking out over the surrounding landscape. If you are looking for a quiet, comfortable place with breathtaking views, this could be the perfect accommodation for you. Here is the link
- Do I need to book anything in advance? We recommend browsing the endless options on Civitatis for unmissable experiences in Torres del Paine National Park. You will have free cancellation up to 24 hours in advance and the assurance of a guaranteed spot, especially if like us you travel in high season, between December and January. Here you will also find the link to the Lago Grey boat trip, which unfortunately we were unable to do due to the wind. When we arrived at the lake, all time slots for the day were completely full, so advance booking is essential.
Lago Grey boat trip with beach and glacier visit from Torres del PaineOn this Lago Grey boat trip you will explore Torres del Paine National Park. You will also visit the beach and glacier near the lake.
Filiamovia
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