When the opportunity to visit our grandparents on the Amalfi Coast unexpectedly arose, we didn't have to wait twice. They had booked a two-bedroom apartment; if we wanted to join them, there was a place!
We checked flights and found it was still possible to find reasonably priced ones, even though it was right around the June 2nd long weekend.
So we planned not to see everything, but what we could fit in three and a half days, and I must say we managed to do a lot, without necessarily having to rush.
Let's also exclude the first day from the count, since, for the first time in our lives, they managed to lose our luggage on a direct flight between Milan and Naples. It didn't happen to us in the most unlikely airports in the world, it happened here in Italy... but oh well!
Day 1: Amalfi, Atrani and Ravello
The first essential tip for visiting Amalfi and Atrani is to leave early. Parking is limited and fills up quickly by 8:00 a.m., so it's essential to arrive early in the morning, also to avoid the "river" of tourists pouring in from the various tours of the coast.
We parked at the port and were just a short walk into the city center. We started from the beautiful Duomo, with its long staircase. In the morning, it's certainly less crowded, but it's in complete shade, so not the best for photos.
Entrance and visits are permitted only when there are no services, so be aware if you're visiting on the weekend. For this very reason, we started with the nearby cloister, the small museum, and the crypt, before concluding with the interior of Duomo.
After our visit, we strolled through Amalfi's narrow streets, lined with shops and merchandise. I'm sure you'll find several characteristic views, so let your imagination run wild. During our stroll, we also stopped for a light snack at Cica, a delicious fish fry shop that offers takeout and also has a few tables.
Once you've completed your tour of the town, continue on foot to Atrani, reached via a pedestrian tunnel and just a few meters along the main road. Atrani, though less famous, is very pretty.
Start your visit from the small beach, which offers a beautiful view of the city from below. Then, pass under the bridge to reach the center.
This small square is lined with many small restaurants, perfect for a quick lunch. After lunch, we continued toward the upper part of the city, climbing the stepped street that starts from the center. The series of painted terracotta vases is beautiful.
Our plan was to visit the Collegiata di Santa Maria Maddalena, which unfortunately was closed. When we returned to Amalfi in the early afternoon, the cathedral was shining in full light, but alas, the town center was truly overcrowded with tourists. We then continued on to Ravello, which is just a short distance away. Its main square, with its church and various outdoor cafés, is truly picturesque.
From the center, we continued on foot to reach Villa Cimbrone. The walk passes by beautiful lemon groves, which we're sure will capture your attention as well.
The first thing you can visit at the villa is its beautiful flower gardens, which at the end of May were a riot of colorful roses and evocative views.
Just a few steps from the entrance, the small Arabesque-style cloister is also worth a visit: truly a place full of charm!
Among the unmissable features of this villa is its infinity terrace, which offers a view of the intense blue of the sea below.
Day 2: Positano and Sorrento
Here too, it's essential to arrive in Positano early. For parking, we definitely recommend the Mandara parking lot, which is closest to the pedestrian area. Along the road to the beach, you'll find charming little shops selling local clothing, quite expensive but sometimes very original.
Aside from a small church, we didn't find anything else special: the beauty is the view of the city from the beach, with all the colorful houses perched on the hill. We walked to the end of the beach, looking for the best spot to photograph it!
From here, we then walked back up Via Cristoforo Colombo, searching for some panoramic viewpoints that are worth a visit and a must-see on any visit to the city. We even had to queue at the most popular ones!
From here we moved on to Sorrento, which feels more urban than the other places we've visited. After lunch, we strolled through the center until we reached the town hall, with its small park and a view of the sea from above.
To cool off, we couldn't miss an ice cream at Giardini di Cataldo. A veritable garden of lemon trees, it's a great place to take a break, enjoy a delicious ice cream (lemons and citrus fruits are a must), and maybe even try their locally produced limoncello.
On the winding Amalfi Coast road, this little cart has become a tourist attraction. It's a shame the owner has a unique charm...
Day 3: Vietri sul Mare and Cetara
For the last day, we chose a shorter, but still absolutely unmissable, itinerary. We set out from Vietri sul Mare, a small village known for its colorful ceramics. Our starting point was the charming blue alley, which has now become a must-see for visitors to the city.
The route is really short, so you'll have to plan a bit to get the most out of it. We arrived early and there was no one there, but soon afterward, tourists and photographers arrived. We got back in the car and headed up to the upper part of the city. We strolled through the streets of the center, past souvenir shops and quaint cafés, whose activities are depicted on wonderful painted ceramics.
We also reached the Villa Comunale park on foot, with its colorful ceramic decorations that almost seem like a tribute to Gaudi's style.
We then continued on to Cetara, where we stopped near the beach for a beautiful view of the entire city. There's also a small playground for children, and Enea had some fun.
Cetara is known for its traditional tuna and anchovy sauce, so a few purchases in the shops downtown are a must. We also took advantage of the opportunity to enjoy a delicious lunch featuring local products: truly delicious!
Before your trip
- How many days? We stayed 3 and a half days, essentially just a quick visit. You'll definitely need more days if you want to see the area thoroughly and also visit places like Capri and Anacapri, which we had to skip
- How to move around? Once you reach the Amalfi Coast, the question is how to get around to the different destinations. There are various options, including buses and ferries, but the former are often overcrowded and the latter are not at all cheap. We therefore preferred to travel by rental car, which offers a good level of flexibility and the possibility of making several stops each day. Parking is quite expensive (the most popular ones start at €8/hour) and fills up quickly, but overall it remains the most convenient solution for us during this period
- Where to stay? We chose Maiori. It's centrally located, making it easy to reach the various towns. It has a small town center and a short promenade along the sea, making it pleasant even in the evening. It's also easier to find parking, a major problem along the entire coast. It's not particularly picturesque, but it offers a good selection of accommodations at more reasonable prices than other towns, as well as a good selection of restaurants and a few supermarkets. If you're looking for a tasty takeout meal or a snack with local products, don't miss La Tramontina. Many dishes are prepared to order, and the parmigiana is delicious
- Where to eat? We tried several restaurants that were really high quality and very different from each other:
- in Maiori we suggest Ristorante Pineta 1903, where you can dine in a beautiful garden filled with lemon trees. The seafood cuisine is delicious, and the homemade pasta dishes are a must
- if you pass by Sorrento don't miss a lunch at Benvenuti a Casa: although it might seem like a touristy place from the outside, you will be amazed by the quality of the cuisine and the friendliness of the owners. Highly recommended!
- in Cetara for a tasty lunch Dea Mangiona, will delight you with many anchovy specialties. Definitely not to be missed!
- What to buy? Costiera Amalfitana is the perfect place for buying good limoncello. The one we liked best is the one we bought in Ravello, at the distillery along the road to Villa Cimbrone. In Cetara, don't miss the anchovy and tuna-based products: you'll find several specialized shops to choose from
- in Maiori we suggest Ristorante Pineta 1903, where you can dine in a beautiful garden filled with lemon trees. The seafood cuisine is delicious, and the homemade pasta dishes are a must
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