Perito Moreno and beyond: a journey through Patagonia's ice cathedrals in Los Glaciares National Park

The imposing ice walls of Perito Moreno had long been a dream of ours, and seeing them in person was one of the reasons that inspired us to organise this tour through Argentina.  

The glacier lies within Los Glaciares National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1981. Within the park there are two other important glaciers: Spegazzini and Upsala, which can only be seen by sailing across Lago Argentino.

The first experience we recommend for fully appreciating the grandeur of Perito Moreno is to walk along the various panoramic walkways on the Magallanes peninsula. Each colour marks a particular section according to the view it offers. Having left the car in the car park, we took the free shuttle to reach the park's refreshment area.  

Start from the short white trail to reach the first viewpoint, then we recommend continuing along the  Sendero Central (yellow), which offers the most striking views of the glacier wall, near the area where you are most likely to witness a chunk of ice calving off.

It will be hard not to stop for a photo, or simply to gaze at this natural wonder. Along the route you will find several photographers available to take atmospheric keepsake shots for just a few euros — also handy given that the walkway floors are made of grating and we could not position our tripod.

Then continue along the Sendero Inferior (red), which will bring you closer to the glacier along the Brazo Rico. Here too there is an unmissable viewpoint. We did not find it particularly difficult, even though the map flags it as such.

Having completed the Sendero Inferior (red), we walked part of the Sendero del Bosque (green), but we did not find it particularly scenic. In several places the view was blocked by vegetation and it was also partially closed for maintenance work. We then returned to the Sendero Central (yellow), discovering additional viewpoints after our first pass.

To return to the car, instead of taking the shuttle, we walked the Sendero de la Costa (blue), which we recommend: as well as offering a fine view of the glacier along the Canal de los Tempanos it leads directly to the car park.

To complete all the marked trails, stopping many times — spellbound — to listen to the rumbling sound of chunks of ice breaking off the glacier and taking countless photos, we spent 3.5 hours. Enea spent most of the time snoozing in the baby carrier and walked a little in the safer sections.

By boat you can join several excursions, some of which depart directly from here. We ruled out this option, choosing instead a longer tour that also included a view of Perito Moreno from the water.

On the second day we set off very early to reach the port of La Soledad, inside the park, to begin our long exploration of the glaciers of Lago Argentino. We chose to entrust this experience to Civitatis and were very satisfied. The boat even has an area equipped for children, where Enea could play and have fun during the sailing.

We began the sailing by passing close to the Seco Glacier, clearly in a phase of retreat, with vegetation taking over in the part closest to the lake.

We then continued towards the Heim Glacier and the Spegazzini Glacier, which stands out from the others for the impressive height of its ice face, reaching 135 metres!

We disembarked for a short walk at Puesto de las Vacas. At one time the location had been settled as a cattle grazing area. Now only small traces remain, such as the hut on the beach. Either way it was pleasant to walk around and discover the unusual flora of the area up close.

The sailing continued towards the Upsala Glacier, which with a surface area of around 870 square kilometres is one of the largest in the park. It is also notable for its length of around 60 km, making it a prominent feature of the Southern Patagonian ice field.

This is one of the most dynamic glaciers — periodically huge icebergs break off into Lago Argentino, constantly changing its appearance.

Resuming the sailing, we had lunch with a delicious gourmet sandwich included in the tour. We sailed along the Canal de los Témpanos and after more than an hour we finally reached the northern face of the Perito Moreno Glacier.  

Approaching the glacier by water is an indescribable emotion: as you draw closer to its imposing wall, you are literally left breathless. The dizzying height of the ice face makes you feel tiny, while its intense, surreal blue glow is dazzling.

After hovering near the ice wall for about 30 minutes we resumed sailing and said goodbye to Perito Moreno as it grew smaller and smaller. Around 17:00 we returned to the port of La Soledad and got back in the car to return to El Calafate.

We leave you the link to the experience we had, which we wholeheartedly recommend!

To visit the park, the nearest place to stay is El Calafate, about 80 km away. Bear in mind that it takes about 1 hour 20 minutes to reach the Perito Moreno walkways and that at the park entrance you will spend about ten minutes buying your entry tickets. The road is always paved and offers several scenic spots where we stopped to take photos. If you are lucky, as we were, you might even see a puma (an enormous grey cat) crossing the road as if it were nothing.

The city grew up precisely as an accommodation hub for all the tourists who visit the area. Along the main street (Avenida del Libertador San Martin) you will find a small and very charming local market, supermarkets and several restaurants.

Along the road to the park (near El Calafate) you will also find the Glaciarum, an interactive museum about glaciers and their formation. It is worth visiting to better understand the history and significance of glaciers. Pay attention to the opening hours, which are very limited.

For us, visiting the glaciers of Los Glaciares National Park was a dream come true, an experience we can wholeheartedly say is a "must-do" at least once in your lifetime!

Before You Leave

• Where to stay? For this leg of our trip we chose a bungalow in a quiet residential area, just outside the centre of El Calafate… and it was the best choice we could have made! Spacious, quiet and tastefully furnished, this accommodation made us feel at home straight away. It has everything you need: a super well-equipped kitchen, a lovely bright living room, parking, efficient heating (essential around here!) and an attention to detail that we truly appreciated. The owner was also very kind and helpful: when we left for Chile, she kept some things we did not need for that part of the trip so we could travel lighter. On our return, before heading to the airport, we found everything perfectly looked after. A small gesture that makes all the difference! If you are looking for a quiet, comfortable place with genuine hospitality, we absolutely recommend it. Here is the link


• Do I need to book anything in advance? We recommend browsing the endless options on Civitatis for unmissable experiences in Los Glaciares National Park. You will have free cancellation up to 24 hours in advance and the assurance of a guaranteed spot, especially if like us you travel in high season, between December and January. Here you will also find the link to the tour we selected. Perfect for seeing all the glaciers up close, including a short trek and a meal.