Malta in November: three days of sunshine and baroque treasures
Three days in Malta in November were enough for us to fall in love with this island that holds unexpected treasures: fortified cities that tell centuries of history, sunsets over ancient walls and that Mediterranean cuisine that tastes of sea and tradition. Together with Alessia and Dimi, a couple of friends, we discovered an island that is perfect even out of season, when the weather is mild, the tourists are few and every corner can be enjoyed at a leisurely pace.
Visiting Malta in November proved to be a great decision: pleasant temperatures around 20 degrees (Celsius), no queues at the attractions and the chance to experience the island at its own authentic rhythm, far from the summer crowds. The locals were more approachable, prices were more affordable and we were able to enjoy every experience without rushing.
Ready to discover our Maltese itinerary?
Mdina and Rabat: the Silent City and its secrets
Our Maltese adventure began in the best possible way: with a stop at Is-Serkin (also known as Crystal Palace Bar), a very no-frills bar that constantly turns out delicious pastizzi, the flaky pastry parcels filled with ricotta or peas that are the emblem of Maltese street food. Crispy, warm and incredibly tasty, they were the perfect snack to kick off our exploration of Malta.
Mdina and Rabat, which literally means "suburb", were once a single city until the Arabs built walls and a moat around the former. Rabat retains the distinctive charm of an ancient town and tells the island’s history in an authentic way. Narrow lanes, historic residences with their characteristic gallarija — the covered wooden balconies painted in vivid, eye-catching colours.
Several important ancient religious buildings are also found here, such as the grotto and the Catacombs of Saint Paul, which we did not visit. We wandered without a specific destination, following the lanes that looked most characterful, drawn along by the unusual coloured doors with the most unexpected doorknobs we had ever seen.
A feast for the eyes that I never tired of photographing for the rest of the holiday. We then made our way along the evocative pedestrian street Ir-Repubblika to its most symbolic focal point: the Church dedicated to Saint Paul and the square of the same name.
From there, we strolled enjoying the atmosphere of Rabat, which beyond its main tourist spots is very quiet and almost tourist-free, until we reached the main entrance to Mdina.
Mdina, the ancient capital of Malta, is one of those cities that captivates you the moment you pass through its gates. Known as the “Silent City”, this fortified village welcomes you with its narrow cobbled lanes, honey-coloured noble palaces and that atmosphere suspended in time that only age-old places can bestow. Even in November we found many people at the entrance to the city, and we could only imagine how difficult it must be in summer to fully appreciate the true essence of Mdina.
Once inside, you will find yourself in a dense maze of little lanes where it is a pleasure to get lost in search of the quieter stretches, where you can imagine what life was once like when the city was a crossroads of different peoples and cultures.
Among the unmissable attractions, Saint Paul’s Cathedral (or Metropolitan Cathedral of Malta) dominates with its baroque facade and richly decorated interior. The ceiling frescoes and the marble floor inlaid with noble tombstones create a solemn atmosphere that takes your breath away. On the same square stands the elegant Palazzo Gourgion and the Cathedral Museum.
The most magical moment of the day came at sunset, when we returned to the bastions of Mdina to watch the sun go down over the island. The golden light caressing the fortifications and the view stretching all the way to the sea made that moment truly special.
Enea, after a day of touring through lanes, had a wonderful time in the small park just outside the walls, where he could finally run and play freely while we savoured the last rays of sun setting the city ablaze.
Visiting time: 5h
Valletta and the Three Cities: fortifications by the sea
The second day was dedicated to discovering Valletta, the Maltese capital declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Valletta is an open-air architectural gem, its streets rising and falling between baroque palaces, monumental churches and bastions that dominate the harbour.
We began our walking tour from the Lower Baracca Gardens, a short walk from our accommodation. Once private gardens, they are now open to the public and offer a splendid view of the coastline and various monuments, including a statue dedicated to Aeneas (the epic hero).
From there we continued north-east as far as Fort Saint Elmo, which we did not enter, before heading back towards the heart of the city along Republic Street. We then visited the Grandmaster’s Palace, one of the most iconic and unmissable attractions on the island. As well as its two inner courtyards, most notably the one housing the Pinto Clock with its four dials, the interior rooms recount the city’s history through richly decorated ceilings.
Continuing along Republic Street, we reached the square of the same name, a true crossroads of people, historic cafés and street musicians.
We had lunch on the benches of Triton Square, choosing from the various local vendors offering sweet and savoury local and international street food. For the savoury side we chose Pupcy, while I could not resist a delicious cannolo from Dolci Sicilianu.
We then headed towards the harbour, passing by the Auberge de Castille, a splendid palace built to house the Knights of Saint John, and Pjazza Teatru Rjal, an iconic open-air theatre-square built on the ruins of the old Royal Opera House.
We arrived at the Upper Baracca Gardens, where you enjoy a magnificent view of the Grand Harbour and the Three Cities, as well as a very convenient lift that for a nominal fee takes you down to the harbour.
Here we tried one of the island’s most characteristic experiences: boarding a dghajsa, the traditional Maltese boat similar to the Venetian gondola, to reach the Three Cities on the other side of the harbour. Crossing the Grand Harbour by sea, admiring the imposing fortifications from this perspective, is a spectacle that is worth the trip on its own.
The Three Cities — Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua — are fortified villages rich in history and charm. Here time seems to have stood still: narrow lanes, colourful balconies, baroque churches and that silence broken only by the cry of the gulls.
We strolled through their streets, discovering evocative views and a small craftsman who builds miniature gallarija in vivid colours out of wood.
There are also unmissable attractions here, including the Church of Saint Lawrence and the Church of the Immaculate Conception.
We lingered over a pleasant aperitivo near a small marina, waiting for the city lights to begin coming on so we could enjoy the spectacle from above. The evening ferry journey back to Valletta, with the lights flickering on across the fortifications, was the perfect ending to an unforgettable day.
Visiting time: 8h
The last day: the Co-Cathedral and the baroque heart
Before catching our afternoon flight, we devoted the morning to what is probably Malta’s most spectacular attraction: the St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta. Visiting it in November, without the endless summer queues, was a privilege. We were able to admire every detail at our own pace, moving freely between the chapels and taking in the beauty of the place without the rush that a crowd imposes.
Austere and almost sober on the outside, the cathedral conceals an interior that literally takes your breath away. Every centimetre of the walls and ceiling is covered in baroque decorations, frescoes, gilding and inlaid marble. The floor is a vast mosaic of marble tombstones recounting the stories of the Knights of Malta.
The Museum attached to it houses priceless treasures, including Flemish tapestries and works of art that tell the history of the Order of the Knights. Among the most significant paintings are certainly those by Caravaggio, who took refuge on the island to escape a murder conviction.
The museum also has several interactive rooms that explain in an accessible way the thinking and perspectives behind the construction of Caravaggio’s paintings. If you are curious to find out more about his story, we recommend watching the film dedicated to him before you set off.
Visiting time: 2h
A curiosity about Malta: if, like me, you are drawn to details, you will inevitably end up collecting the most unusual, colourful and original doors to be found on the island. I have put together the ones that struck me most!
This brief taste of Malta has convinced us to plan a return visit in the future, perhaps in spring, to discover its beaches and seaside life.
Before You Leave
- How do I get around? The car is the optimal solution for travelling with children.
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- Where to stay? As it was a long weekend, we decided to stay in Valletta in an apartment close to the Lower Barakka Gardens. The choice proved spot on, since we had dedicated the second day to exploring the capital.
- Where to eat? We dined out only one evening, at Nenu The Artisan Baker, a historic restaurant serving traditional Maltese cuisine in a homely, welcoming setting. The generous portions and authentic flavours won everyone over, Enea included!